IC-40 Intellichlor low salt
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Posted

My intellichlor is not producing chlorine. The control panel indicates 2500 ppm salt, but the actual salt level tested at 3300 ppm. The unit has a red low salt light illuminated. The water temperature is 59-60 F. Can the low water temperature cause the unit to indicate low salt and not produce chlorine?

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Yes, Wait until the temp is
Posted

Yes, Wait until the temp is staying at 60-65 degrees or above to allow the salt cell to wake up. It may produce at lower temps but not very efficient.
Here in Socal we shut them down at 65 Degrees in the water and wait for temps to come back up before adding any salt and waking them back up.

Hope this helps
James

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Thank you. I was hoping that
Posted

Thank you. I was hoping that was the case because I purchased this replacement chlorinator only about a year ago.

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How old is your cell?
Posted

How old is your cell?

The latest design which is "Version 3.0" and up there are three sections on the top of the cell, in the middle section labeled "Status" the top light labeled "Cold Water- system off" illuminates when the waters too cold and shuts the cell off.

If your cell is the older version it's got to be near the end of its life also.

Mark

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Mark,
Posted

Mark,
I will double check, but mine doesn't have a cold water - system off light. I know that I purchased it new only 1 year ago or less.

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I have exactly the same
Posted

I have exactly the same problem with my IC60. It's about 14 months old. LIke Mark, my salt level is fine, I too lack the "cold water system off" indicator. My water temp is 60 degrees. from the top, salt level (no light), ideal salt (solid red), status pwr (no light), status cell (no light), flow (green)

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Mark,
Posted

Mark,
I rechecked and I do have the newer model with the Cold Water- system off light. It is currently not lit. The low salt light is flashing red. The flow light is solid green. No other lights are lit except the 3 green lights for 60%.

It still reads 2250 ppm salt on inside control panel and it is not producing chlorine. Anything else I can do?

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"It still reads 2250 ppm salt
Posted

"It still reads 2250 ppm salt on inside control panel and it is not producing chlorine. Anything else I can do?"

First what are you using to measure the salt level with (Digital Salt Tester, Strips)?
Also understand a couple of things: The cells have a lifespan of only 8,000 hours (might be 10K hrs. now) also salt cells measure the salt level through "conductivity" not actual "NaCl". As the water temp drops so does the conductivity which manipulates the "actual" salt level by a factor of I believe 200 ppm for every 5 degree drop from 77 degrees. So a pool with an actual salt level of 3400 ppm would read 3000 ppm at 67 degrees, 2800 @ 62 degrees, 2600 @ 57 degrees and turn off @ 55 degrees if I remember correctly.

That said once you verify your salt level accurately, proceed to do the following:
1) Remove cell, disconnect cable and inspect for scale build up and clean with a diluted 2:1 water/muriatic acid solution.
2) Reinstall cell, connect cable, start system and then reset panel (From Reset Button On Panel) once system shows IntelliChlor status, if not correct repeat previous as well as this step one additional time. If still incorrect continue on to calibration steps.
Calibrating your intellichlor, some may tell you newer IntelliChlors Ver. 3.0 like yours can not be calibrated but they can be re-calibrated as follows:
1. You must take multiple readings of the pool water and be absolutely sure of these readings before field calibrating the Intellichlor. If an electronic salt tester is used, IT MUST BE CALIBRATED TO SALT (NaCl), NOT TDS OR CONDUCTIVITY.
2. Fill a small container with water, then use the electronic tester or salt test strip to measure the water. Do not place the electronic tester directly into the pool water, as it will be inaccurate.
3. Verify the FLOW light is green, for good water flow through the cell.
4. Press and hold the MORE button for 3 seconds to enter system status mode. All the lights will scroll across the panel, then go out.
5. Immediately press the “LESS” button. Only press the button for 2 or 3 seconds and let go. The SANITIZER OUTPUT 100% light will turn on, indicating the system will read the salt in a few moments.
6. After a few moments, the 2 lights (Good & Low) in the Salt Level section of the unit will cycle back and forth between the green and red lights when salt is being read.
7. The salt level is now measured, the salt scrolling will stop and one of the salt lights will be displayed. The SANITIZER OUTPUT 20% light will now be lit to indicate changes are now allowed. Press the MORE button to cycle through each salt level, then press the LESS button to choose and save this display.
8. The unit is now re-calibrated to the salt level in the pool.
9. This mode will exit in 5 seconds if no button is pressed.
10. If a mistake is made when choosing the salt level, simply wait 5 seconds for the mode to end, then wait 2 minutes and repeat field calibrate again. The 2 minutes is necessary for accurate readings between salt measurements.

Good luck,
Mark

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I tried the recalibration,
Posted

I tried the recalibration, but I keep getting a flashing green light at the cell light shortly after finishing. On the inside control panel, it says "clean cell !!". When I remove and clean cell, the flashing stops for a short time and then the flashing green light starts again. I have repeated this 3 times, but the same thing happens. No chlorine is being produced. Any suggestions?

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Running the system in low
Posted

Running the system in low salt can cause the cell to die faster. Check the salt levels often. Seriously, the cells can get expensive to replace. I use https://poolchemicalcalculator.com/Pool-Salt-PPM-Calculator.html to stay on top of my salt levels. I like to run a little high so the system doesn't have to work as hard and can make a little more chlorine when I need it.

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