Troubleshooting the Pentair PG2000
10 posts / 0 new
Last post
Posted

I have an in-ground pool with fiber optic ribbon and flood lighting connected to the PG2000.

In the past when the light stopped working I would order a replacement bulb and it would fix the problem. The bulbs are expensive but I really like the idea of fiber optic color-changing lighting.

This last time I ordered a new bulb, replaced it, and it did not fix the problem. Some suggest replacing a capacitor or igniter -- more expensive parts. I do not like the idea of randomly replacing parts in the hope of finding the bad one! I'm not even sure the replacement bulb I got is good, or if the "old" bulb is bad.

I have a multi-meter and experience with high-voltage electronics. I can follow a schematic if one is available. Can anyone tell me what voltages, resistances, or currents to check to determine which component needs to be replaced? I'm looking to isolate the cause of my problem definitively. Right now, the fan comes on, the color wheel operates properly, and the unit turns on and off remotely. Just no photons coming out with either of the two bulbs I've tried. Is there a way to test the bulbs?

As a side question, does anyone know if there's a replacement for the PG2000 unit itself, perhaps using super-bright LED technology instead? Seems it would be more reliable, cooler, and draw less power if anyone makes a compatible replacement. Rather than buying more bulbs and parts for the Pentair, I'd consider going to a different unit if one were available.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Please Sign In to post comments
Richard's picture
Tech, Pentair
When you get a moment, please
Richard's picture
Tech, Pentair
Posted

When you get a moment, please send me a private message with your phone #, we would like to speak to you direct regarding this matter.

Please Sign In to post comments
Thanks for the reply, Richard
Posted

Thanks for the reply, Richard. I don't know how to send a private message on this forum and don't want to post my phone number on the public site here. How do I send you a private message or e-mail?

Please Sign In to post comments
Richard, I have the same
Posted

Richard, I have the same issue with my light. I have a 150V at the bulb but do not know if this indicates that the capacitor is working and it is just the ignitor. Is there a testing procedure to follow that will prove which part has failed?

Please Sign In to post comments
I have the same exact issue.
Posted

I have the same exact issue. I have tried to replace the bulb but still no light. My fan and color wheel are both operating as they should be. I have ordered a lamp ignitor because from research I have heard it's either the lamp ignitor or the capacitor.

Do you have instructions on how to replace the lamp ignitor?

Please Sign In to post comments
I am the original poster. I
Posted

I am the original poster. I still have not found a replacement for my PG2000. I am trying to back-engineer a way to remove the igniter/capacitor circuitry and install a cooler, brighter, and more reliable LED light source within the same housing. If I can accomplish this I'll be able to keep the color wheel and fiber optics which would make me very happy.

I just completed a small renovation project at my house. I had a total of five dual fluorescent fixtures in my kitchen, laundry room and garage. I was able to remove the ballasts and ten fluorescent tubes and install direct-wired LED tubes in their place. The new LEDs are brighter, use less than half the power, do not buzz or flicker, come on instantly, and can be dimmed with a dimmer controller. Plus they're supposed to last for 46 years.

It seems to me we should be able to retrofit our Pentair Photon Generators with this kind of technology -- just strip out the unnecessary "ballast" or transformer parts and put in a bright, reliable, rugged LED floodlight instead. I haven't figured out how to do it yet, but when I do I will post back here.

Good luck with your troubleshooting, Joel. It seems the fiber optic technology is largely being ignored in favor of LED lighting put directly into pools nowadays. It's a real shame that beautiful fiber optics are being abandoned.

Please Sign In to post comments
Hello, I also have the PG2000
Posted

Hello, I also have the PG2000 which is 17 years old now. I converted it to LED technology recently. I incorporated my low voltage landscape lighting to it. I used a FEIT electric brand 50 watt replacement LED bulb with the GU5.3 base. It has a brightness of 500 lumens. The bulb fits right into the place of the old halogen bulb. It uses only 7.5 watts compared to the halogen bulb. I purchased it from Home Depot for about $8.00. I simply ran the low voltage wire up inside of the housing. Then cut off the old existing 2 wire pigtail and connected it to the low voltage wire with wire nuts and taped up the old wires. My pool has a PG2000 tower on each end. Total cost $20. Now the pool lights come on when my back yard landscape lighting come on. It really does a good job of lighting the pool.

Please Sign In to post comments
Hi, Joe!
Posted

Hi, Joe!

Sorry I didn't reply right away to this -- I'm in Florida and Hurricane Irma took our power out for a few days. I'm finally back online.

My PG2000 re-engineering project is on the back burner for now as we've got a month's worth of cleanup ahead of us. I have to say that you've inspired me with your innovative replacement. You'll likely never have to replace your LED light as long as you own your house. That's an outstanding "fix" to this system. Pretty clever hooking it all up with your landscape lighting system.

My pool lighting system is remotely controlled by a Jandy control box which also controls various valves and devices for the pool. It allows me to switch on and off features like the fountain, waterfall, pool robot cleaner, solar and gas heaters, a blower for the spa jets, and to switch in and out of "Spa Mode" when I want to heat and run the spa separately from the pool. It's a rather elaborate system but I love the convenience of using programmed timers and a remote control to change anything on a whim. I want to be able to continue to turn the fiber optic lighting on and off and control the color wheel with the same system remote it has now. So my challenge is how to replace the halogen bulb (and any electronics connected to it) in such a way that I can use the same remote relay setup to turn on a replacement LED spot light to illuminate the fiber optics. If I can figure that out and find a bright enough LED light source, I'll be really happy!

Thanks for posting, Joe. When I finally figure it all out and get something working, I'll post again here for the benefit of anyone else trying to do what we're doing.

Please Sign In to post comments
Hey Harry! Thanks for the
Posted

Hey Harry! Thanks for the reply. I definitely didn't think I would get a reply on this post with it being such an old thread but thanks!

I actually just got my lamp ignitor in today and replaced it myself with NO instructions and it was actually pretty simple. And the 2 lights inside the pool work now but the ribbon lights around the border of the pool are still not working. :/ Do you know why this is? I am definitely happy though that the 2 lights inside the pool are now working, thats for sure! One more thing, after I installed and turned the switch on the lights turned on but then I turned it off and turned it back on and the light was not on so then I turned it off. I fiddled with some wiring and turned the switch back on and the light came back on. I put the cover on and its still working. Any ideas why that happened?

When I searched online for instructions there was nothing, which was surprising to me as these units were popular for a short period of time. Now, anytime I call a pool technician they say these Pentair fiber optics units are "obsolete" and that I should "move to LED". I ask how much that is and I DO NOT like the number!

BTW, good luck with your pool project to moving to LED and good job on the kitchen!

Please Sign In to post comments
Hi, Joel!
Posted

Hi, Joel!

Congratulations on getting your igniter installed and having the light come on again. I don't know why your ribbon isn't lighting when the little spots are working, but I have a few suggestions:

First, are you SURE they're not lighting? I know that seems like a dumb thing to ask, but the ribbons are hard to see if there's daylight. When it's really dark out there, you can tell they're on. They may be a lot dimmer than your spot lights.

Second... I'm not sure how yours are set up, but when my fibers were installed the "bundle" was terminated in one place with the ends for the spots and ribbons in one circular bundle. That way the halogen lamp lights up all of them at once. It may be possible this bundle of fibers got dirty or has some little piece of leaf litter over the ribbon section. You may want to blow it off with compressed air to clean it. We once had a mouse in our yard who stored bird seed in there! Just be sure the unit is clean where the fibers come out.

Third, there's the sad but remote possibility the ribbons were cut somehow. If someone was digging in the ground between your pool and the PG2000, it's possible they sliced that ribbon in half. That's the only thing I can think of if your lamp is on but you don't get light to the pool.

I've had other experts tell me to "move to LED" as well. They're all ready to sell me the latest system. I still want to try to salvage my fiber optic system with a super-bright LED lamp to replace that quirky halogen.

Oh, and about your on-off-on issue -- these halogen projector lamps are not like regular incandescent types at all, which is why they require igniters and weird start-up voltages. There's actually a lighting cycle where the power ramps up for an initial zap to ionize the gas in the tube and then it drops down to the running or operating voltage. Whenever you switch it off, it's wise to let it "rest" for a minute or so before you restart this lighting cycle. This is again why I'm looking for a simple LED replacement which will just work off a steady 120VAC supply without a bunch of supporting external electronics to go bad.

Good luck troubleshooting your ribbon lighting. Let me know if you figure it out!

Please Sign In to post comments