Intellichlor IC40 Power Center
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Posted

How do you know that you have a bad intellichlor power center?.......I owned the intellichlor IC40 for about 2 years. I went out to check my pool system and saw no lights on the cell - so I checked the fuse on the power center and the fuse is not blown. From this point I think the transformer in the power center in gone. If anyone knows how to trouble-shooting for this problem, then please help if you may......Thank you in advance.

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Dan,
Posted

Dan,
Checking the voltage through the center is the only way to tell where the issue is. The power center really only has three parts to it: the transformer, the fuse, and the pcb board. The first thing to check is the voltage out of the transformer, this should be 30VAC. This voltage can be checked on the red wire that connects to the fuse and then again on the other side of the fuse to ensure operation of these two parts. After this, voltage out of the board needs to be checked. You would remove the IntelliChlor from where it attaches on the bottom of the power center and check across the red and the black wire, this voltage should be 22 – 39VDC.
If you do not feel comfortable with performing this check or are unfamiliar with the system, I recommend contacting a local service company that can assist. For a list of local companies: http://www.pentairpartners.com/dealerlocator/dealerlocatorlist.aspx

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Hi, Thank you very much for
Posted

Hi, Thank you very much for your response.........I have used the electric meter to test the incoming power - all good, but there's no power comes out from the transformer. Therefore the transformer is bad, right? If so, do you know what caused it (I had the IC40 system for about 2 years and I cleaned the cells about every 3 months or so). Do you know where I can buy the replacement transformer for this? Thanks again for your help.

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If voltage is good going into
Posted

If voltage is good going into the power center and there is no voltage coming out of the transformer, yes, the transformer is bad. Cell maintenance really would not affect the transformer.
For purchasing a replacement, the link I gave you in the previous response will give you local retailers.

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Thanks again......I have
Posted

Thanks again......I have called those retailers, but none of them carry or sell the transformer for this.

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Hopefully this thread is
Posted

Hopefully this thread is still alive. :) PentairProduct, I did what you said, however I have an IC20. Do not know if that matters. It is making no chlorine even when at 100%. It had two plates that had deposits on them, the others did not. Cleaned in the acid mix, and put back in. All lights are working and "says" it is working, however I am getting no chlorine being made. The voltage out of the transformer, this should be 30VAC. Mine when first started or turned on, is 35/36 VAC. When unit is turned on and wile the SWG is searching for the salt level and the red and green are flashing back and forth, it stays between 35/36 VAC. However once the unit determines the salt level is OK., and the green stays on, the VAC immediately drops to 25 VAC. The red black output to the SWG is at 34 VDC. Would this tell me that the power unit is NG, or the SWG? As I said all the lights are on properly, the SWG "say" it is working. But it is not. Any help would be appreciated. Or should I just bulldoze it and buy them both. Many thanks in advance. All chemical levels are spot on, and the unit says it is at 60% "used", and is about 3.5 years old. PS Was working fine, then stopped making chlorine, however no flow light came on, nor did the clean light come on. That is why I cleaned the SWG with acid.

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I have a Pentair IC40, I
Posted

I have a Pentair IC40, I cleaned the cell, cleaned the cartridge filters, still no flow and the salt cell reads red. Turned off electricity to the box then on after 45 minutes, still NO FLOW. Then I put on a dummy cell and disconnected the salt cell and tried running the pump. Nothing, it just kicks off. What am I doing wrong? Anybody?

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Charles,
Posted

Charles,
This would not be related to the power center in your case but rather the cell itself. If all the lights appear correct on the unit but you are not able to get a reading of chlorine in the water, I would measure the water directly out of the cell just to be 100%. If you slightly open the union on the outlet side of the cell so there is a slight drip, when the cell light is indicating that it is producing, take a manual reading. If there is still no measureable chlorine, then the cell would most likely need to be replaced if all other chemicals in the water are correct. Chemicals that could have an influence on the reading of chlorine even if there is production includes phosphates and nitrates so be sure that these numbers are correct as well.

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Many thanks PentairProduct. I
Posted

Many thanks PentairProduct. I will be having those water items checked, and will be getting a new cell. Probably in a week or so. Will post results. Thanks much again!

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Charles,
Posted

Charles,
Also please remember that no cell on the market can take a pool form 0 chlorine to a reading that you are looking for.......meaning that there must be a residual chlorine reading 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 etc. for the cell to work.
Also as Daryl said Phosphates and Nitrates will gobble up chlorine and cause issues. There are Phosphate removers on the market, but have not seen anything for Nitrates as of yet.

James

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What is the issue if the red
Posted

What is the issue if the red black output voltage is 60 volts on an IC20?

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What is the issue if the red
Posted

What is the issue if the red black output voltage is 60 volts on an IC20?

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