Comment by adam shoffner on Wednesday

FNS Plus 60 - How do I remove the filter manifold? Excess D/E?

Howdy - I am having trouble removing the entire filter manifold after I remove the top.  I pulled and pulled but it feels like it won't budge.  Can I wiggle it good or will something break?  Does the white pvc pipe inside come out with the manifold, or will it stay in there attached to the valve outlet?  Is any of that stuff glued/sealed together?

Also, when I drained it during closing, sooo much D/E came pouring out.....sluggishly at first.  I would backwash and rinse and add the 6 lbs each time, but I have a feeling that the D/E wasn't all being washed out.  Do I need to either put less in after a backwash, or should I flush it out/remove the drain plug more often than at the end of the season? 

Appreciate the help.

Adam

 

Comment by Pentair Product Technician-Ben on Thursday

@adam

There are two nuts that hold the manifold down.  These are attached to threaded rods that go all the way to the bottom of the grid set.  Once those are removed, the pvc pipe will stay in place as you remove the manifold (be sure the o-ring gets put back).

Backwashing will usually leave some DE in the filter, so when you add DE back do a little less.  About 90% of the original amount.

 

@adam

There are two nuts that hold the manifold down.  These are attached to threaded rods that go all the way to the bottom of the grid set.  Once those are removed, the pvc pipe will stay in place as you remove the manifold (be sure the o-ring gets put back).

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@adam, you are likely correct that all the DE didn't backwash out. This is normal, especially if you adding scooped DE to the skimmer instead of mixing it in a 5 gallon bucket into a slurry.

When simply scooping it into the skimmer, it tends to clump in the filter unevenly. Over time, that which doesn't get backwashed get clumped on top of, forming a tick layer of caked DE, especially on the inner portions of the grid assembly.

I generally backwash and rinse three times. Each time I set the multiport to backwash, the amount of time for the sight glass to clear is shorter. I find this give a more thorough cleaning.

By adding the DE to the skimmer in a slurry, a more even layer is formed throughout the grid. Backwashing is more also complete, though not 100%. When recharging, adding only about 80% of a full charge is recommended.

At least once a year, a DE filter needs to be opened and the grid assembly disassembled for a more complete cleaning and inspection. I also soak them in a clean trash can with TSP or cheap powdered dishwasher detergent and water to degrease them. After reasembly, a full charge of DE is added, slurried, and the filter is good to go. Back washing  won't be needed until the pressure rises 8 to 10 PSI for single speed pumps or dual speeds on high or, with variable speed pumps like the Intelliflow series, at only a few pounds , depending on the flow rate being sent to the filter.

I also have the FNS-60 Plus Vertical Grid Filter assembly.
I followed the owners manual to remove the grids for an annual cleaning.
The complete grid assembly cam up and out as described in the manual paragraph H.
I removed all elements, cleaned and then attempted to reassemble the grids onto the bottom plate foot print assembly. Noting that the instructions stated to point the top manifold toward the small grid.
Two hours of work for this, i was then able to fit all grids into the manifold while using the flimsy template as a guide. All insert connectors were fully engaged.
Following the directions it states to now insert the complete element assembly into the filter tank. Problem--It won't go into the tank, the bottom spreader/locater hangs up on the verticle pipe on the side of tank and the filter pads hang up on the side of the tank. I did not want to damage the filter pads.
After an hour of this, i quit, the entire assembly is laying on the deck this morning.
I am considering cutting into the spreader to make room for it to fit around the pipe.
I previously owned a Larrs Filter assembly. It used to take not more than one hour total to do a complete overhaul making the annual cleaning of the tank.
This Pentail design is a complete disaster the way it has to be reassembled. The processs of fitting the manifold onto the pads is the problem, the old Larrs put the pads down into the receiver at the bottom of the tank easily going in, and the job was done. This design causes a person to juggle all the pad inserts into the manifold while using a flemsy template which is bound to break eventully and have to be replaced.
This design is just the oposite of the larrs which allowed each pad to go into without having to juggle all others causing complete frustration.

I bought the complete package from Pentair, new best motor, new best heater, new best filter, etc. Right now i wish i had the 20 year old Larrs unit back. I don't have time to try to asssemble something with such a poor design. I will just let it lay there on the patio next to the filter tank.

I can understand the frustration reassembling the grid assembly. Just remember that the short grid is second from the outside in the spiral where the stand pipe has it's opening. I usually save it for last when reassembling.


Please note that the other brands have a very similar design so it won't make a particle of difference in that respect. Heck, Haywards don't even have the template to help!

Lars primarily made heaters. I don't know of any Lars filters in my region of central NJ.

Walking away for a spell is often the best method. Lord knows I have done this enough times. Coming back with a new perspective happens this way.  Something different needs to happen. With the new attitude comes that something different. Don't repeat the same thing. We know that was off somehow.

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